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I was able to take a left at the right time and angle, and join the collision, be pushed into the air, then float back down with the foam, feeling weightless because the foam and I are falling together. While that is happening, it's like I am outside of my body suspended in an "instant eternity." The experience can be repeated over and over if the conditions are right. When my body changed from traveling inshore to going vertically upwards, it would happen. I would be moving upwards with the water, stop, then fall back down with the water. The motion at that time is up and down.
Originally, when the experience was new, I would do sort of a flip turn and head back out for another ride. After many of these rides during the "instant eternity" time of the ride, I thought that I could lower my feet and land on my feet during the vertical movement of the water, much like a gymnast might finish a stunt. It would be over in an instant because the waves will continue in their original directions toward shore and outwards.
The point is, there is a lot of power and energy released during the collisions of the two waves, but at that place where the motion is vertically up then down, there is less force during that "instant eternity." It just lasts for just a few seconds, but it is there.
In my thinking, moving air is fluid and may behave like water in the same conditions. Strong wind blowing against a building has no place to go if the building does not move. The air bounces back from the building into the incoming wind forming a cushion that stops the incoming air from striking the building. It also stops many or most of objects carried by the wind from striking the building. Anyway, that's what I hypothesized in Key West during Hurricane Floyd.
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