Index...MENU ..MENU2...Date of Artmail pages..............Updated: 2-20-06....................................................444.
Iniki pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
...
During the spring, a sand bank is formed and may get to be 6 - 8 feet high. The sand that has been carried away, forms a sand bar a little ways off shore. When the waves and tide are high enough, surf striking the sand bank reflects back towards the sea. This happens with regularity during the sets.
Of course, the next wave is on its way inshore. When these two waves collide, a wide range of sights may be observed depending on the angles of the collisions and the power of the waves. At one extreme angle, 5 - 10-foot rooster tails may zip for tens of yards as the waves pass through each other. Other times, at a head-on angle, the collision will cause a loud bang and send water 10 - 20 feet into the air. It's fun to watch and hard to catch with a digital camera.
For bodysurfing, that sand bar offshore is perfect. I bodysurf without fins so I stay where I can bounce my toes off the sand. The usual fun rides happen where the shoulder and face of the wave may be ridden across the sand bar, then end the ride, before the inshore part of the sand bar where a deep channel has a strong lateral current. It's free and fun and great cardiovascular exercise. When drying off, I would practice flying my boomerang. (I'm a boomerang pro for Aloha Rangs of Hawaii…gotta practice in a safe place …it's part of my job. Polihale is the perfect place).
When one spends a lot of time in the surf, one notices what is happening and when. One keeps his attention on the surf at all times…if not, the sea will "slap" you and get your attention.
I pay attention to what the wave does after it passes me on its way inshore. The one that I ride will be following the same path. It is especially fun to watch and time the reflection wave collisions sending that water column into the air.
Iniki pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12